![]() Striking horizontally isn't as difficult as it may seem, like everything about the craft, practice is what puts the polish on the knowledge. Striking horizontally you can use the areas where the web meets the rail or flange as swadges and straighten down the flange. Most are in the 1910 and later time frame. The web is the thicker so it's dandy for a small radius fuller and one section of the flange can be sharpened for a hot cut while another can be sharpened as a butcher. You may have to look harder, but there is other writing on the anvil above the weight. With a little grinder work you can make a number of useful tools from the flange and web edges. The length needs to be right so you get the forging surface correct. Standing it on end in a bucket of cement makes for an effective anvil you can move without trouble. Torching it will impart carbon in the heat effect zone and heat shock it HARD, you'll end up wearing out a couple few grinding disks cleaning it up. ![]() Cast markings are easy to identify as they are usualy raised figures rather than stamped into the anvil. A few are marked in kilograms and some cast anvils are marked in pounds rounded to the nearest 10 pounds (250 25). I've done work at Ren fairs on a sledge hammer head, RR rail is good for an anvil without bothering with trying to make a horn on it. Anvils made in other places (including many Swedish anvils) are often marked in pounds. Mouse Hole Forge was known for putting punch marks between the numbers and sometimes only they remain of the logo stampings.You can get away with almost anything that outweighs your hammer by a goodly margin. The marked weight is usually off from scale weight a couple of pounds. In this case the anvil originally weighed 126 pounds (112 plus 0 plus 14). The first number represents multiples of 112 (1/20th long ton), the middle one multiples of 28 and their last remaining pounds. competitor.Įnglish produced anvils can frequently be identified by the stone weight system used on them at the waist, usually on the side with the horn to the right, such as 1 0 14. Fisher & Norris (see below) would have been their major U.S. was pretty well dominated by English produced anvils, with Mouse Hole Forge, Peter Wright and, to a lessor degree, Wilkinson and William Foster the dominant exporters. Of course more is better, but assuming you are not working big stock down to blade thicknesses, 20:1 anvil to hammer is decent ratio for knife & trinket size forging. Bladesforging does not need a lot of anvil weight either. Most forging does not need much surface area. Until the late 1800s the high-quality anvil market in the U.S. Good makeshift anvils are as abundant and easy if one has any ingenuity. Mousehole Forge anvils can be dated from their logos: Trevor's is circa 1854 - 1875: M&H ARMITAGE MOUSEHOLE FORGE M&H = Morgan and Henry All Mousehole anvils are pretty well 'handmade'.' Source: The Mousehole Forge by Richard A. Mousehole Forge contined to use water power (heave or tilt hammers) long after other manufactures switched to mechanical hammers. There is a coastal English town named Mousehole and it was well known as the site of a brief French invasion about the time the forge was started. In England a bend in a river with a deep spot is known as a mousehole and Mousehole Forge was located at such as spot. The square handling holes in an old anvil are called mouseholes. 'The origins of the name of Mousehole is not certain. Part of the premises has now been converted to a private residence. ![]() Mousehole Forge, Malin Bridge, Sheffield, England, dates from 1628, pre Industrial Revolution, and is situated on the River Rivelin. Shop from the huge range of KAP Other Hand Tools. We have since been able to track down the origin of this as from Mousehole Forge. Buy KAP Cast Iron Anvil, Weight: 25 kg Online in India at moglix. A few weeks ago we placed a picture and query regarding an anvil with a mouse brand on it on behalf of Trevor Goodacre ( Trevor's Museum) who shares so many of the objects he has collected and their histories.
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